After ordaining myself into the South East Asian motorcycle club, by riding on both Thai (Chiang Mai) and Cambodian (Siem Reap) roads; I figured Hoi An, the small ancient port city, neighbouring the ...

The sandy trail brings them adjacent to a vast and empty estuary. A mile in front lay wind-sculpted dunes covered in an ashy beachgrass, the sharp kind that cuts when you run through it. Two figures,...